Develop Your Daily Skincare Routine: Part II
Do you not identify with any of the skin types listed in Part 1? People with oily to acne-prone skin, sensitive skin or mature/aging skin have very different needs in their daily routine. Read on to see which products are right for you and how to develop your daily skincare routine.
Daily Skincare Routine for Oily to Acne-Prone Skin
Look for products that have ingredients that aid in minimizing oil production, but don’t go overboard. Typically, layering drying ingredients will dehydrate the skin causing oil glands to overcompensate for the lack of hydration. It is all about keeping a healthy balance. Washing often (at least twice a day) will reduce sebum accumulation that breeds bacteria and subsequent breakouts.
Overall Goals: Light Hydration, Sebum Reduction & Accumulation
Cleanse (AM/PM): A mild foaming gel works well for oily skin types as it cuts through oil without over drying. Avoid acne-targeted cleansers that are loaded with harsh ingredients, especially if you are using any topical acne medication. You want cleansers that will target bacteria, an antimicrobial mildly exfoliating cleanser to decongest pores while still offering nourishing benefits to avoid over stripping the skin barrier.
Toner (AM/PM): Oily skin types can tolerate drying products in moderation. Choose witch hazel (a natural astringent without the drying effects) or a mild alcohol-free toner with hydrating ingredients and low concentrations of lactic or glycolic acids. It is an effective way to hydrate, refresh and help congestion build up from oil accumulation.
Moisturizer (AM/PM): The misconception about oily to acneic skin types is that skipping moisturizer is a good thing. The fact is oily and acneic skin require hydration and moisture just as any other skin type. It is important to note that your skin can become oilier when the moisture balance is compromised, causing overcompensation from oil glands. To avoid this, choose a lightweight, oil-free moisturizer. Try a water-based moisturizer or a gel-cream consistency with hyaluronic acid, glycerin, sodium PCA (moisture humectant) are ideal for weightless and breathable hydration.
SPF (AM): Oily skin may shy away from SPF in fear of it being too heavy or causing breakouts. Look for a weightless zinc oxide SPF; they leave a more matte finish to the skin. Choose one free of fragrance, parabens and silicones.
Exfoliant (PM): Use 2-3 times per week. If you are new to exfoliating or changing the type of exfoliant, it is best practice to use conservatively for a couple of weeks, regardless of whether the packaging advises daily use. Exfoliating every other day can improve skin dramatically. Retinol is great to use because it helps to reduce oil production, increase cellular turnover for a smoother texture and makes your pores look smaller with consistent use every other night.
Conversely, if retinol is not for you, choose peel pads that have glycolic, salicylic and mandelic acids and willow bark extract to provide the same benefits but just at a slower rate.
Mask (Weekly): Those with oily skin should look for strategic ingredients to combat oil and acne.
Clay: Kaolin or bentonite varieties are highly absorbent of oil and draw out impurities.
Sulfur: Oily and acneic skin respond well to sulfur due to the antimicrobial properties and effective oil absorbency. Some people have a low tolerance for sulfur products, so perform a patch test before applying it to your face.
Charcoal: Great for oil absorption and skin detoxification.
Daily Skincare Routine for Sensitive Skin
Many people experience sensitivity to an extent, although there are some that will have a higher degree of sensitivity than others. The latter experience flare ups doing the most basic things, which is sometimes followed by stinging, small breakouts or uneven complexion. Sensitive skin can also be dry, oily or acne-prone. It is important to be consistent and address concerns conservatively to achieve and support calm, balanced skin.
Overall Goals: Calm Skin & Reduce Irritation
Cleanse (AM/PM): To nourish and soothe sensitive skin, you want to choose a cleanser that reduces signs of sensitivity. Avoid sulphate and highly concentrated hydroxy-acid-based cleansers that can cause dryness and irritation. Instead, look for cream, oil, low-foam gel or water-based cleansers such as micellar water.
Toner (AM/PM): Alcohol-free toners are formulated with calming properties to rehydrate the skin without stripping the moisture barrier. Look for ingredients like allantoin, aloe, calendula, and white or green tea extracts.
Calm (AM): Because of the small molecular size of serums, they supply deep penetrating ingredients that go further than creams or moisturizers. A vitamin C serum that protects against photo damage and calms irritation is excellent for sensitive skin types.
Fragrance-Free Moisturizer (AM/PM): Choose a light cream or balm that nourishes and strengthens the skin’s protective barrier. Olive leaf extract is recognized for its restorative properties to help calm blemish-prone and compromised skin.
SPF (AM): Avoid sunscreens with ingredients like avobenzone, oxybenzone or octinoxate, that increase sensitivity and redness. Use mineral-based, chemical-free sunscreens that have zinc oxide, which are less irritating.
Exfoliate (Bi-weekly): Avoid the dangers of abrasive physical exfoliants that can over-sensitize. Low concentration retinol exfoliants packed with fruit enzymes like bromelain, papaya and pumpkin are ideal for sensitive skin. Lactic, malic and low-concentration glycolic acids are a good combination to not only gently exfoliate but supply hydration and refreshingly clearer skin. A quick way to get glowing with minimal to no irritation. Exfoliation should be performed a few days apart to avoid excessive stimulation.
Mask (Weekly): Calming masks with oatmeal, aloe vera and botanical extracts work well to desensitize, soothe and combat redness. Most gel masks will have glycerin or hyaluronic acid to moisturize. For acne-prone sensitive skin, use a mask that has niacinamide (a form of vitamin B), probiotics or prebiotics to balance and detoxify to clear blemishes.
Daily Skincare Routine for Mature Skin
Aging is a part of life and developing wrinkles is an integral part of the process. But how we age is up to the choices we make now. A good night’s sleep and healthy eating habits are important but good skin care will provide a different level of radiance and glow from within. A mature skin regimen will slightly mimic a dry skin care routine but with a few differences in products.
Overall Goals: Plump, Lift, Brighten & Repair
Cleanser (AM/PM): A cleansing balm, oil or milk is ideal for mature skin types. They are antimicrobial and deep cleansing without stripping the lip barrier. The drier your skin, the more vulnerable it is to damage.
Toner (AM/PM): Choose a toner with a low concentration of mild acids; malic (apples), tartaric (grapes) and glycolic (sugar cane) that will refresh and brighten the skin.
Antioxidant (AM): Powerhouses for mature skin include:
Vitamin C – Brightens, boosts collagen, provides photo protection
Ferulic acid – Usually found combined with vitamin C to enhance protection and strengthen skin integrity to neutralize free radicals
Resveratrol – Packed with skin calming properties, helps to minimize redness and combats environmental stressors that cause cellular breakdown
Vitamin E – Moisturizes, prevents and minimizes the signs of scars, strengthens skin barrier function
Moisturizer (AM/PM): Look for skin-replenishing ingredients like ceramides, glycerin, sodium PCA, and hyaluronic acid to hold moisture in the skin, and contain peptides to replenish and safeguard barrier function. For an ultimate radiance boost try a couple of drops of face oil in your moisturizer or use alone. Its low molecular weight penetrates deep and locks moisture in.
SPF (AM): Sunscreen should be worn rain or shine. It is equally important to slather it on your neck and the back of your hands as these two areas are the first to show signs of aging. You should choose a broad-spectrum SPF 40 or higher and reapply throughout the day.
Exfoliant (3-4 times per week): Exfoliants play a crucial step in maintaining a youthful glow as they remove built up layers of dead, thickened skin. As we age, cellular renewal slows down dramatically so it is important to use a product that accelerates the process.
Vitamin A a.k.a Retin-A is a must-have for mature skin. It works at the cellular level and helps regain a youthful glow by jumpstarting cells to replicate faster resulting in the shedding of built up dead skin. This product can reverse the outward signs of aging, revealing improved tone and texture, decreased appearance of enlarged pores for smoother skin.
If you are apprehensive about full Retin-A use, try its milder derivative retinyl palmitate. Otherwise, opt for a non-abrasive exfoliant that has enzymes, glycolic, kojic and/or lactic acids to name a few.
Start off conservatively, using it 2-3 non-consecutive nights per week, for four weeks, then increase (1 night) every other month for visible non-irritating remarkable results. Make sure to follow-up with a nourishing moisturizer to aid in the regenerative processes while you sleep.
Mask (Weekly): For mature skin types, there are a few concerns that are typically most common: hydration (or lack thereof), inflammation and texture. Choose a mask treatment that is formulated to address these concerns to use weekly.
Hydration – Masks that have fatty acids, glycerin and hyaluronic acid target the lipid barrier to nourish and restore cellular imbalance caused by dehydration and dryness.
Inflammation – Look for a mask with ingredients like chamomile, green tea extract, niacinamide, and vitamin E to soothe and repair.
Tone & Texture – Choose one that is brightening, containing vitamin C, kojic acid and squalene for brightening. Retinol and alpha lipoic acid will aid in texture and cellular metabolism respectively.
Still have questions?
It’s hard to tell what your daily skincare routine should be if you don’t know your skin type. The experts at Courted are happy to help diagnose with a complimentary Visia skin analysis and can recommend the right products to incorporate into your everyday routine. Stop by or give us a call at (703) 239-6910 to schedule an appointment.